Everest North Face vs. South Face: Routes and Access Compared

Climbing Mount Everest is one of the most challenging achievements on the planet. However, reaching the summit takes strikingly different routes depending on where you’re coming from. Everest can be climbed either up the north face in Tibet or the south face in Nepal. Each side offers you a wildly different experience based on geography, culture, and climbing conditions. The south face is a more commercialized and structured way to Everest, which makes it more suitable for guided climbs. The north face, is the other hand, is a more challenging and rugged way to Everest. Making it favoured by climbers who want solitude and a more adventurous climb.

The Two Sides of Everest

Mount Everest is located on the Nepal-Tibet border and presents two main routes to the top for climbers: the South Face and the North Face. Although both routes end at the same summit, they present strikingly different experiences in terms of trail, accessibility, climate, and cultural context. Each has its history, strengths, and weaknesses, and the decision as to which one to climb is one of the most important aspects of any Everest expedition. It is valuable for climbers selecting an itinerary and for anyone interested in the more in-depth logistics of climbing to the world’s roof to understand the character of these two routes.

The Everest North Face (Tibet Side): Remote and Rugged

Far up on the Tibetan Plateau, Everest’s north face is an isolated and lesser-known route to the summit. This site features sweeping ridgelines, icy traverses, and a clear absence of heavy climbing traffic. Unlike the more commercialized southern approach, the north face attracts climbers who prefer a quieter, less-supported, and more technically demanding experience. The Base camp is reachable by road, which simplifies logistics but reduces natural acclimatization. There are fewer climbers who travel this path, if you do choose this way, you should be prepared for extreme exposure and greater psychological demands. It is a climb that tests not only skill but endurance and resolve.

The South Face of Everest (Nepal Side): Iconic but Crowded

On the Nepal side, Everest’s south face is the world’s most popular route to the top. This is the route of legends, immortalized by the 1953 ascent of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. The south side is known for its well-established infrastructure, experienced guides, and a gentle incline. Scores of climbers reach for the summit every climbing season along this route, many utilizing Sherpa support, pre-established camps, and fixed ropes. While still physically and mentally demanding, this route is less strenuous for experienced climbers who have a history of high-altitude climbing and thus is the route of preference for guided expeditions and novice summits.

Climbing Everest: North Face vs. South Face

Reaching the top of Everest is never a one-size-fits-all journey.  Your choice between the north and south faces will shape your entire experience, from the technical challenges to the cultural encounters, the weather you face, and the support available. Some seek the quieter, harsher north for its solitude. Others choose the bustling, well-supported south for a higher chance of success. Understanding these differences also the overall journey or duration to climb Everest helps climbers align their goals with the right route.

North or South? Choosing Your Everest Route

The choice between the north and south sides of Everest often hinges on the experience and motivation of a climber. Those looking for a less crowded, more challenging experience with fewer climbers may be attracted to the north. Its isolation and exposure require independence, high-level preparation, and psychological toughness. Alternatively, climbers focus on a structured expedition with the advantage of rescue support and a higher chance of summiting, preferring the south. Every route involves certain physical, emotional, and logistical demands, so the best route depends on a climber’s personal style, skills, and goal.

Difficulty of Routes

The North Face is widely regarded as tougher. Climbers have to contend with steep ridges, appalling exposure, and the notorious Second Step, a sheer rock obstacle above 8,600 meters. There are fewer fixed ropes and colder winds to make things even tougher. Though the South Face of Mount Everest is equally risky, it is a little more forgiving. The route passes through the Khumbu Icefall and ascends the Lhotse Face, both formidable sections, but better training, fixed rope systems, and access to Sherpa guides and rescue teams support climbers. Overall, the North Face of Mount Everest demands more advanced climbing skills and stress tolerance.

Access & Logistics: Permits, Base Camps, and Travel

Reaching Everest is a journey that begins much earlier than the climb itself. Permits, travel routes, and access to base camps all play a major role in planning. The north face and south face each have their own standards and requirements. On the north side, you have the advantage of driving directly to base camp. On the south side, you get to trek for several days through mountain villages. Visa rules, government permits, and fees are different for Nepal and Tibet. So are the support options, like guided services, porters, and rescue access. These logistics will shape your timeline, your budget, and your overall experience. Before choosing a route, it’s important to understand how each side works and what to expect along the way.

The North Face (Tibet)

Permits: Climbing from the north side means entering Tibet, which is part of China. The permit process is more strict and tightly controlled. Climbers need a Chinese visa, a Tibet Travel Permit, and a mountaineering permit from the China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA). Independent travel is not allowed. You must join a registered expedition through an approved agency.

Base Camp Access: North Base Camp is accessible by road. Vehicles can drive you directly to the base camp. This makes the approach shorter and easier. But it also means you miss out on gradual acclimatization. Without the slow gain in altitude, climbers are more likely to face altitude sickness if they are not well-prepared.

Travel Experience: The journey to the North Face is less about trekking and more about overland travel. You’ll cross wide plateaus and stay in remote Tibetan settlements. The landscape is stark and beautiful. Cultural encounters are fewer but still meaningful, especially with Tibetan guides and locals. The experience feels more remote and isolated.

The South Face (Nepal)

Permits: Nepal has a more organized and familiar system for climbers. Permits are more expensive than in Tibet. But the process is smoother. Local agencies are experienced and helpful. You’ll need an Everest climbing permit, a Sagarmatha National Park entry permit, and a TIMS card. Everything can be arranged through a trusted expedition company.

Base Camp Access: Getting to South Base Camp starts with a short flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. From there, it’s an eight to ten-day EBC trek through the Khumbu Valley. This trek helps your body adjust to the altitude naturally. Many climbers say the journey to base camp is just as memorable as the climb itself.

Travel Experience: The south side offers a richer cultural experience. You’ll pass through Sherpa villages, visit monasteries, and enjoy local food along the trail. The route is scenic and full of life. There’s a strong sense of community. You meet fellow trekkers and climbers from around the world. It’s physically demanding but deeply rewarding.

Weather, Temperature and Climate Conditions

The weather is the most critical element in deciding whether an Everest attempt will be successful or not. Weather determines timing, safety, and the general mountain experience. Although both the north and south sides are harsh, they offer quite different weather that climbers must acclimatize to.

North Face of Mount Everest Weather(Tibet side)

The north face of Everest, situated on the vast Tibetan Plateau, is known for its extreme cold and relentless high-speed winds, which become even more severe at higher elevations. This side of the mountain is far more exposed to powerful blasts of wind and drastic temperature drops, creating a hostile environment for climbers. Storms are a frequent menace, especially before the monsoon season, and they often arrive without warning, leaving little time for preparation. The window for a successful summit on the north face is significantly shorter, with fewer days offering the clear, stable weather necessary for a safe ascent. The bitter cold here is not just uncomfortable; it is life-threatening. Frostbite and hypothermia are constant risks, and prolonged exposure can quickly become hazardous for those who are not adequately prepared.

South Face of Mount Everest Weather (Nepal side)

The south face of Everest, accessed through Nepal, offers more stable weather conditions, particularly in May, which is the most popular time for summit attempts. Climbers here benefit from slightly milder temperatures and reduced wind speeds, especially around the South Col, making the ascent marginally less punishing. The Khumbu region’s relatively sunnier climate contributes to a more moderate atmosphere during the climbing season, providing some relief from the relentless chill. The summit windows on the south side are generally more predictable, giving teams a better chance of carefully planning their final push to the top. This combination of milder weather and a more reliable forecast makes the south face a preferred choice for many climbers, especially those seeking a safer, more structured ascent.

While the north and south faces of Everest differ in climate and reliability, both are equally exposed to extreme and fast-changing weather. No part of the mountain is ever truly sheltered from the elements. Even experienced teams can be caught off guard by sudden drops in temperature or unexpected storms. A small miscalculation in timing, or even a moment of hesitation near the summit, can quickly turn deadly.

Risks & Death Rates: Which Side Is More Dangerous?

Both sides of Everest are dangerous, but the north side has historically had a higher death rate. The additional technical difficulty, worse rescue access, and more adverse environmental conditions all contribute to more risk. On the south side, having helicopter evacuations, fully established medical facilities, and a larger support network can help in emergency cases. Despite this, neither route can be taken lightly. Everest is a place where preparation, decision, and reverence for the mountain can make all the difference between life and death. There is real and immediate risk involved with every ascent, no matter what route is taken.

North Face vs. South Face: Critical Factor Breakdown

The decision to climb Everest’s north or south face often comes down to a few core elements. Comparing them side by side helps clarify which route suits a climber’s style and goals. Below is a breakdown of the most important factors, offering a direct comparison between the two faces of the world’s highest mountain.

FAQs

1. Has anyone ascended the Everest north face?

Yes. The first successful ascent of the north face was completed by a Chinese team in 1960. Since then, many climbers have reached the summit via this route despite its difficulty and isolation.

2. Is Everest’s north face difficult to climb?

The north face has a challenging route, colder temperatures, and fewer fixed ropes. It requires advanced technical ability and high-altitude experience. So yes, it can be more difficult to climb.

3. Which Everest side is better, the north face or the south face?

There is no universally better side. The north face offers solitude and a tougher climb, while the south face provides structured support and a higher chance of success.

4. Which route permit is easier to obtain, the north face or the south face?

Mount Everest South Face permits are generally easier and more consistent. North Face permits are subject to Chinese government regulations, which may vary from year to year.

5. Which route is more expensive, the north or the south face?

The south face of Mount Everest is typically more expensive due to higher permit fees and the costs associated with trekking logistics. However, its better rescue infrastructure and support may offer added value.